Yukikaze Dry Dock

[protevangelium]

Like some of you, my Kagero-class IJN destroyers are suffering from battle damage (i.e., they are badly warped.) Before I use the boil-ice method on them, can anyone suggest another and/or the best way to take care of their badly warped hulls?

['Warspite']

Like some of you, my Kagero-class IJN destroyers are suffering from battle damage (i.e., they are badly warped.) Before I use the boil-ice method on them, can anyone suggest another and/or the best way to take care of their badly warped hulls?


Mount them on a thick card base? I am considering doing that with my small craft, especially the Japanese sub chasers.

The base can be painted sea colour and a 'wake' added in white around the ship.

[Demotox]

Hair Drier, bend, cool.

[Lynx7725]

Doesn't work that well. WAS plastic seems to remember shapes better than DDM stuff.

[Grandviceroy]

i glued the subchasers to thick blue cardboard too...otherwise not only do they get lost in the map, they get lost, period.

i have had a few yukikazes warp a bit, as they have a thin tail, but not too bad.....

[Lynx7725]

Yukikaze tends to arc. My Samuels are pretzels right now though.

[Autarch]

Some of my Nordmarks are starting to pretzelfy.

[polish_horsy]

Yukikazes can't even be fixed with hot/cold water treatments. they are pretty much crap.

[TheJudge]

I call them the banana boats. :)

Gluing them to a small piece of wood or cardboard is definitely the way to go. Easier to move them and pick them up and they don't get the banana bends.

Living in Florida, I have learned to deal with planes that look like sea gulls from A&A and the destroyers that are made out of rubber. It's not the heat see, it's the humidity.

[polish_horsy]

I'll probably have to do that with several other units also. And to be honest I'd rather use the subs from the cheap A&A board game then the subs we have in the minis game. At least they are straight. But I have no proxies for the destroyers. So some kind of base is going to have to work.

[Joisey]

Glue downs sound like the way to go, but if humidity is an issue, then using cardboard is probably not the way to go. Even without humidity as an issue, cardboard doesn't stand up over time. I think an ideal stand would be a large guitar pick, suitably painted, of course. It's flat, rigid, and durable.

Solving one problem creates another: Storing these with glued on bases takes much more room.

[bayushiseni]

My first booster had a Yukikaze and a Nordmark that had the "banana" syndrome. I almost quit the game at that moment (it would have saved me some money, I guess).

But... Then I also received the Kongo (that besides having a too big floatplane) was awesome.

So I cutted a cardboard, painted it with contact adhesive, glued the ship at it and painted the base of blue and it got much better. So much better that I made it to all the ships and I'm thinking I will cut the subs of that awful transparent base and put it all in blue cardboard.

If you paint all the cardboard with contact adhesive, humidity won't get in in the next 20 years.

It takes extra space but its cute...

[Volorkey]

I tried the boling water ice water combo on some of my bent barrels in A&AM and it worked great for about an hour then they remembered how they used to be and slowly reformed to their original state. It may take several tries and it may not work at all and I have no idea if it would work the same with WaS minis.

[Thalan]

I got small strips of sheet metal from my hobby store and glued them down. It worked great.

[keitho]

I soaked my Yukikaze banana boats in hot water then used twisty-ties (the kind that come with plastic bags) and tied them to a thin aluminum plate with one tie at each end and one in the middle. I cranked 'em down and after a few days, they were completely flat. One has been fine ever since, the other needed a re-treatment and is now fine.

[Aelric]

-Cheap paper maps
-Barely passable paint jobs
-Poor production quality (missing parts of hulls)
-Warping plastic ships

I enjoy the ruleset and from a distance the ships looks decent but this game definately needs an upgrade in terms of the overall quality of the components

['Warspite']

Glue downs sound like the way to go, but if humidity is an issue, then using cardboard is probably not the way to go. Even without humidity as an issue, cardboard doesn't stand up over time. I think an ideal stand would be a large guitar pick, suitably painted, of course. It's flat, rigid, and durable.

Solving one problem creates another: Storing these with glued on bases takes much more room.

UK readers will know of wooden ice lolly sticks. Because of their grain they rarely warp lengthways and you can buy packs from art and craft shops.

The alternative is very thin MDF. [medium density fibre board] but beware of inhaling the dust.

[bayushiseni]

Here goes some based ships I made.

http://f9g.yahoofs.com/groups/g_20353011/b331/__sr_/2865.jpg?grQLrcGBtjw_mI03

http://f9g.yahoofs.com/groups/g_20353011/b331/__sr_/5b24.jpg?grQLrcGBUjMVtddM

[Joisey]

Here goes some based ships I made.

http://f9g.yahoofs.com/groups/g_20353011/b331/__sr_/2865.jpg?grQLrcGBtjw_mI03

http://f9g.yahoofs.com/groups/g_20353011/b331/__sr_/5b24.jpg?grQLrcGBUjMVtddM

What material did you use for the base?

[bayushiseni]

Acrilyc paint
Thick cardboard
Contact adhesive

You must cover the whole base with contact adhesive so that humidity doesn't enter.

[polish_horsy]

Here goes some based ships I made.

http://f9g.yahoofs.com/groups/g_20353011/b331/__sr_/2865.jpg?grQLrcGBtjw_mI03

http://f9g.yahoofs.com/groups/g_20353011/b331/__sr_/5b24.jpg?grQLrcGBUjMVtddM

makes it kind of tricky to read the bottom of the ship though.

[TheJudge]

Those are perfect Horsy and all you gotta do is write on the bottom of the base what ship it is. Easy.

[bayushiseni]

And you can also name each ship with a different name from the same class.
That is very nice.

[Barry Kendall]

Mine didn't retain the heat-straighten-chill treatment either. I hope they opt for a firmer plastic next time. The harder plastic hulls the big ships have seem to work a lot better.

I have seen blue acrylic rectangular bases for sale at HMGS-East miniatures conventions for ships, but they are sized for 1:2400, not 1:1800. They have sizes that would work for DDs and subs, though. At these cons they also sell pre-cut thin (but rigid) metal bases in a variety of sizes that would work for small or large ships.

I've been thinking about using square brass or aluminum rod that I've seen in my hobby shop instead. Cut a length, glue it up underneath the hollow hulls of small ships--it will clear the waterline, and it's rigid so if the glue holds, the ship's hull will be held straight by the rod.

I thought about using large paper clip wire, but that would rust, and brass and aluminum won't.

This whole bent-bits thing from Wizards is disappointing; it happens a lot in their other collectible-miniature games too, and there's really no excuse for it--the pieces are being taken out of the molds too fast before they're properly cooled.

I hope they get it in hand before Set II comes out.

[polish_horsy]

how freakin' expensive is decent plasctic anyway? their cost per destroyer in terms of the plastic might go up from 1 cent to 2 cents? shudder.

[gcrutch]

My USS Baltimore bends upward from the bridge to the bow. It looks so much better flat, but I don't know if any glue can straighten it when bonded to a base - the plastic is hard on the larger ships.

["Sink the Bismark"]

I have more promlems with Le Terrible, they bend like rubber
:(